Cycling the Shimanami Kaido: An Easy Three-Island Day Trip by Rental Bike & Ferry

Introduction: A Coastal Cycling Experience Unlike Any Other

The Shimanami Kaido is a world-renowned cycling route spanning the tranquil waters of Japan’s Seto Inland Sea. Stretching approximately 70 kilometers, it connects the historic port town of Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture with Imabari City in Ehime Prefecture. The route links several islands via a series of magnificent bridges specifically designed with cyclists in mind.

Unlike many famous cycling destinations that demand high levels of endurance or advanced preparation, the Shimanami Kaido offers an incredible degree of flexibility. You can choose to conquer the entire distance in one go, or take a more leisurely approach by using ferries and rental cycles to hop between islands.

Below is a recommended one-day “Island Hopping” plan that combines rental bikes and ferries, allowing you to explore three beautiful islands in a single day.

ACCESS

The Most Common Route: Shinkansen (Bullet Train)

The most efficient way to get to Onomichi is by taking the Shinkansen to Fukuyama Station and then transferring to a local train.

• Tokyo Station → Fukuyama Station
  • Take the “Nozomi” train on the Tokaido-Sanyo Shinkansen line.
  • Travel Time: Approx. 3 hours 30 minutes.

• Fukuyama Station → Onomichi Station
  • Transfer to the JR Sanyo Line (bound for Mihara or Itozaki).
  • Travel Time: Approx. 20 minutes.
• Total Travel Time: Approx. 4 hours.
• Total Fare: Approx. 18,000 to 19,000 yen.

Why the Shimanami Kaido Appeals to International Cyclists

For cyclists from Europe, North America, and Australia, Japan can feel intimidating at first: language barriers, dense cities, unfamiliar traffic rules. The Shimanami Kaido removes much of that friction.

Clearly marked blue cycling lines, well-maintained roads, and dedicated cyclist infrastructure make navigation intuitive even for first-time visitors to Japan.

Starting Point: Onomichi and the Gateway to the Islands

Most journeys begin in Onomichi, a nostalgic harbor town facing the Inland Sea. Narrow hills, old temples, and calm waterfronts give the city a quiet charm that contrasts beautifully with Japan’s major metropolitan areas.

A major attraction for cyclists is the redevelopment of a former waterfront warehouse into a cycling-focused complex, where rentals, cafés, accommodation, and bike facilities coexist.

Here, travelers can rent bikes suitable for their riding style, leave luggage behind, and start their ride with minimal preparation.

In Onomichi, the gateway to the Shimanami Kaido, rental bike services are highly accessible. The “Shimanami Rental Bike” is a convenient service where you can pick up and drop off bicycles at 10 different terminals located along the route. While you are required to designate a return terminal when you start, it is possible to change your destination later—giving you peace of mind even if you need to adjust your itinerary due to weather or physical condition.

Crossing to Mukaishima: A Ferry Ride into the Ride

Instead of riding directly across the bridge from Onomichi, many cyclists choose a short ferry ride to Mukaishima. The crossing takes only a few minutes but immediately shifts the atmosphere from urban port to island calm.

This ferry-and-bike combination is particularly appealing for international visitors who value flexibility and low-stress logistics.

Riding Along the Coast of Mukaishima

Once on Mukaishima, the road hugs the coastline. Traffic is light, the terrain is gentle, and the sea remains constantly within view.

Fishing boats drift quietly offshore, and small shipyards and villages offer glimpses into daily island life.

Innoshima: Citrus Culture and Island History

Crossing the bridge to Innoshima introduces a new personality. The island is famous for its citrus production, particularly hassaku oranges, which appear in desserts and snacks throughout the area.

A popular stop for cyclists is a local confectionery selling hassaku daifuku, a refreshing treat especially welcome on warmer days.

For those willing to add a short climb, the Innoshima Suigun Castle offers panoramic views and insight into the region’s maritime history.

Ikuchijima: Lemon Island and a Perfect Lunch Stop

The ride continues across another bridge to Ikuchijima, widely known as “Lemon Island.” The air itself seems brighter here, with citrus groves dotting the hillsides.

Setoda Port and its surrounding shopping street provide an ideal lunch stop. Cafés, casual restaurants, and small shops cluster within walking distance, making it easy to park the bike and explore on foot.

Local cuisine often features lemon as a key flavor, from seafood dishes to desserts and soft-serve ice cream.

Cultural Detour: Art, Architecture, and Quiet Reflection

Ikuchijima is also home to one of the route’s most visually striking cultural sites — a temple complex blending traditional architecture with an expansive white marble garden.

For international visitors, this unexpected fusion of Buddhism, art, and landscape design becomes a memorable highlight of the ride.

Souvenirs for Cyclists

In the Shiomachi Shotengai shopping street, you’ll find VIA shimanami, a shop specializing in cycling apparel and gear. 

The interior is packed with original jerseys inspired by the Shimanami theme. In addition to jerseys, they offer a wide range of items, including cycling caps, gloves, socks, and musettes (sacoches). These items make for the perfect souvenir to remember your Shimanami Kaido trip or a great gift for your cycling friends.

Ending the Ride: Returning by Ferry

Rather than retracing the route, many cyclists choose to return their rental bikes at Setoda and take a ferry back to Onomichi. This one-way option allows riders to enjoy the islands without worrying about energy reserves or time pressure.

The ferry ride offers a final chance to enjoy the Inland Sea from the water, watching the bridges you crossed recede into the distance.

Practical Advice for Overseas Cyclists

Even though the route is beginner-friendly, preparation enhances enjoyment. Lightweight cycling gear, sun protection, and sufficient hydration are recommended, especially in warmer months.

Road etiquette is relaxed, and drivers are accustomed to sharing the road with cyclists — a reassuring factor for those riding in Japan for the first time.

Conclusion: A Ride That Redefines Cycling Travel in Japan

The Shimanami Kaido is not simply a cycling route; it is a carefully designed experience that balances accessibility with authenticity. For cyclists traveling from abroad, this three-island itinerary offers an ideal introduction to Japan’s cycling culture, combining scenic riding, local food, and seamless logistics.

Whether you arrive with your own bike or rent one locally, the memories created here extend far beyond the kilometers ridden.

SHIMANAMI JAPAN